No one says " Rain Rain Go Away" when the first monsoon showers arrive. Not only is the parched earth rejuvenated, but there is the unmistakable and delicious smell of mouth-watering pakoras being fried. Recently, even before the sky darkened, a friend treated us to Japanese tempura. These are fritters that come draped in delicate, translucent attire with not a speck of spice as adornment, thereby letting you savour the original taste of the ingredients.
To keep the rice flour batter exceptionally crisp, ice-cold water is used. There are other foreign fritters no less tempting such as green spinach leaf which refuses to wilt despite deep-frying. But, why travel abroad to relish such fritters when one can taste bliss right here in India in a pakora made with screaming scarlet rhododendron blossoms, kamal kakari or pumpkin flowers?
Pakora is masculine and pakori (used commonly in UP and Bihar) is feminine. There is also the plebian bread pakora, a lifesaver for countless Indians who must grab a filling bite while on the run. Here, a sandwich packed with a spicy potato filling is dunked into a batter of thick gram flour before being deep-fried. The more pretentious version may include a few tidbits of paneer.
Then there is the mirchi bada (chilly pakora) of Jodhpur, which is as much a part of city lore as breeches, jackets and the majestic Mehrangarh fort. Bengal boasts of a great variety of bhaja, which is deep-fried. Some, like beguni, are indistinguishable from brinjal pakora elsewhere. Arum leaves, filled with urad dal paste, yield patode in Banaras, which treats it like a side dish rather than a snack. All along the west coast and southern India, bhajjis and bhajia prepared with onions, potatoes and brinjals are relished. In Tamil Nadu, raw banana fritters are preferred. But as the poet said, what is in a name? A pakora is a pakora, is a pakora.
One can also savour anda (boiled egg) pakora near liquor shops. In winter, murg and fish pakoras give tough competition to tikkas and tandoori fare. Mixed pakora platters are one of the most popular accompaniments of tea in the roadside dhaba. Potatoes, cauliflower, onion and green chillies contribute the bulk; a few batons of cottage cheese add a touch of opulence. In season, one can also seek delight in a green (spinach) pakora — a small flat emerald-hued offering.
Dhabas have long been associated with special pakoras. Garam Pani, en route to Almora, made its reputation from tiny alu-pyaaz-mirchi pakori served with a pungent mustard-laced raita that could put any wasabi to shame. The trick is to refry the fare for extra crispness. Some vendors take great pride in their trade secret and scorn to use a readymade chaat masala. Tucked away between Regal Cinema and Allahabad Bank in Delhi is Malik's, which for generations has been synonymous with mouth-watering pakora, especially gobi and paneer.
But perhaps all that was before transfats struck terror in our weak hearts?
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