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Showing posts with label Culinary Culture. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Culinary Culture. Show all posts

Saturday, January 22, 2011

Tender coconuts break into corporate offices

It's 'ready to serve' and like a soft drink bottle or tetra pack, you can take it inside any office, drink and then dispose. Sold with the brand name Tender Fresh, 1500 – 2000 tender coconuts every day are reaching a clientele that reads like the who's who of Bangalore's software companies. 

Tender coconut, which was a 'footpath commodity' till recently, has now got a double promotion to posh corporate offices in Bangalore. It's Health Magic Natural Foods, a twenty-one months-old firm that has succeeded in carving an altogether new market slot for tender coconut. 

Interestingly, this is perhaps the only value-adding industry of its type in India. 'In fact', clarifies Yogesh H R, 29, the brain behind this novel enterprise, 'we do only minimum processing. But since ours is a pioneering industry, we had to start from scratch and overcome many challenges.' 

 Today, Health Magic sells 1500 – 2000 tender coconuts every day. Their main clientele reads like a who's who of city's software companies. Employees of giant software companies like Infosys, Wipro, IBM, Accenture, and Honeywell are their regular customers. "They are so satisfied with the product that if we fail to deliver a single day, the phone starts ringing", Yogesh points out. 

Says Francis Pais, Manager, Big Bazaar, Banashankari, Bangalore, "Tender Fresh looks so attractive and is very hygienic unlike what is available on roadside. Everyday they supply fresh stock. We have a regular clientele for that comprises both middle as well as high class. Feedback is very good." 

Recently, for the World Coconut Day celebration organised by the Coconut Development Board (CDB) at New Delhi, this company's tender coconuts were sent by plane from Bangalore. After all, what's the specialty of these tender coconuts? 

 These tender coconuts, even after partial dehusking, retain their natural colour and taste for a long time. About 5-6 days under room temperature and upto three weeks under refrigeration. 

Yogesh, a post-graduate in horticulture, has specialised in post harvest technology of horticultural crops from the University Of Agricultural Sciences (UAS), Bangalore. For his post graduate thesis, he studied courses related to post harvest technology of many horticultural crops. Work experience in organizations like Xavier Institute of Management and Mother Dairy foods processing Limited, a subsidiary of National Dairy Development Board and a course in Agri clinic and Agri business training program by NABARD has helped him to acquire managerial skills. Sarvesh Kumar, a horticulture graduate hailing from a coconut grower's family of Tiptur (north-west of Bangalore, between Tumkur an Chikmagalur) is his partner. 

How this novel idea struck to these youngsters? "When we were pursuing our course in horticulture, we students were often discussing about increasing the marketing prospects of tender coconut. We strongly believed that being a top health drink, it deserves far better marketing place than footpath. If it is possible to convert it into a form that is very convenient for those working in corporate offices to take it inside and drink it easily in a comfortable atmosphere. But, how to achieve this? This question was there uppermost in my mind since a number of years." 

While surfing through internet, Yogesh was amazed to see that some Thai products perfectly matched his dream. Says he, "This practice is very common. Thailand exports young coconuts to USA, UK, etc., through refrigerated ship consignments. Inside the country also it is commonly available in hotels, restaurants and even in road sides." Thailand's enviable achievement in value-adding tender coconuts inspired these two youngsters to act on those lines. 

But being altogether a new idea to our country, there was nobody to guide them. Very little information was available on 'minimum processing'. For commercial scale marketing, trimming tender coconuts by hand was not enough. Moreover, by this method, getting uniformly shaped products is out of question. As such, the very first challenge was to search for a trimming machine. 

Unfortunately, none were readily available. With no other way left, Yogesh decided to develop one. He started efforts in this line with the help of an engineer. Eight months of research finally succeeded. The machine they have developed has a capacity to trim 350 - 400 tender coconuts in eight hours. 

India is the world's number three producer (22%) of coconuts. It lags slightly behind Indonesia (27%) and Philippines (23%). Thailand, with its negligible 3% production, has captured the number one position in value-adding tender coconuts in various forms.  Generally, tender coconut loses its colour hours after trimming. Within two days, it turns ugly blackish; fungi starts growing over the trimmed surface. So, the next hurdle was to find out a suitable treatment to retain the natural colour. 'After trials with three different chemicals, we arrived at the right choice', recalls Yogesh. The R & D took more than a year, 'without a job and salary'. However, his horticulture education helped him a good deal. "Otherwise", recalls Yogesh, "such an idea would never have flashed in my mind." 

Before starting their venture, these youngsters conducted a market study. Many of their target consumers, i.e., software company employees had expressed that 'if tender coconut is available in neat, 'easy to handle and ready to serve' form, they would prefer to go for the same. This gave them the much-needed confidence.

Health Magic Natural Foods was started in January 2005. Initial capital : 800,000 Rupees. The trimming machines peel out the outer green skin. With this, the tender coconut becomes more attractive and easy to handle. Bottom portion of the nut is cut in such a way as to facilitate the nut to self-stand on tables. Then it is dipped in a solution of potassium metabisulfite and citric acid. This retains the original colour. After drying, the nut is wrapped with food-grade cling film to enhance the shelf life. 

In a way, you may even call all these minimum processing measures as beauty addition too! Forget about the foreign and inland tourists, a look at Tender Fresh would attract even the farmers who grow it. Everyday, Health Magic door - delivers its beauty-added tender coconuts at the software companies. At Bangalore, Hopcoms sells it at their selected outlets. Hopcoms is a co-operative giant running a chain of horticultural produce shops throughout the state. However, a breakthrough was when the leading software company Accenture gave consent to Health Magic to open a retail parlor at their premises. An initial daily sale of 150 nuts here has now risen to an overwhelming 250-300. 

Analyses Yogesh, "consumers in coconut growing area know the natural taste of tender coconut. As such, the preserved tender coconut water doesn't attract them so much. In our 'minimum processing', we don't heat the tender coconut water, nor do we add any additives. Our main thrust here is to think always as to how conveniently and easily we can provide tender coconut water to consumers without altering its natural taste." 

While the roadside tender coconuts are priced Rs.10 in Bangalore, Tender Fresh is priced only at Rs 12 at consumer's door. Health Magic lifts its supply of fresh coconuts directly from farmers of Channapatna area. They have arrangement with about 100 growers who are given training by the firm about selection and harvesting of right kind of tender coconuts. Every week, the Health Magic's factory at Kengeri gests 2-3 loads of fresh tender coconuts. In monsoon, the sales go down by 25%. 

Software companies don't permit the tender coconuts to be cut inside their premises. Most of the clientele buy Tender Fresh for its water. As such, the firm keeps only the sweet water in mind in its selection criteria for raw tender coconuts. Too big and too small sizes are also not preferred. One of the problems that come in the way of tender coconut marketing in city offices is the problem of disposal of the left-over. How does Health Magic tackle this? 


"It's not a big problem. We collect the solid waste and bring it back. Our vehicle, after delivering fresh nuts, picks up previous days left-over and brings it back to our factory. Poor people around happily take it home for future use as fuel," reveals Yogesh. 

Clouds of suspicion on soft drinks has also helped boost up the market for Tender Fresh. "However, to cash on that aspect, you need intensive marketing efforts. Right now, our production and resources are limited. But the potential is vast. We can develop good market in restaurants, star hotels, super markets, trade fairs, conferences, seminars, ceremonies etc," he hopes. 

However, they have plans to bring out a family pack shortly. There will be packs containing two or four nuts that families can easily carry even on two-wheelers. They can take home the pre-cooled pack, keep it in their fridge and drink it whenever they like, just like the bottled drinks. 

"Occasionally we get feedback from our consumers. Many software employees express that they are very happy now. Earlier, they had to come out of their offices and walk down in the streets in search of tender coconuts on the footpath. There are a few who say that they have bid good-bye to coffee or tea and have opted for our product. Health consciousness is increasing." 
 
In fact, this pioneering industry has tremendous potential to scale up in our own country. Years ago, when coconut prices had fallen, Coconut Development Board took lot of initiatives to start tender coconut parlors in and outside Kerala. Some of them were serving a health drink by name coconut lassi is nothing but the tender coconut water blended with its own white meat with the help of a mixie. Coconut lassi, sold at Rs 5 had good takers. The same product, if served in a more attractive and convenient form would have developed an altogether new market segment. Unfortunately, till now, nobody seems to have taken this product to the urban elite in a trend-setting way. 

"Tender coconut is a noble gift of nature; it has to reach the noble clientele in the country," wishes Yogesh, "We would like to sell Tender Fresh like milk sold in milk booths." He has plans to start more retail parlors in more software company's premises. In addition, plans are there to begin retail outlets at railway junctions, bus terminals, big hospitals, shopping complexes, marketing places, government office complexes, private offices etc. One more idea of diversification is to open 'Coco bazaars' that sell fresh and tender coconuts, packed coconut milk, chips and all coconut products at one place. 

Adds Yogesh: "Ideas are abundant. But what limits us are the financial resources. Moreover, our technologies have to be fine-tuned. If Coconut Board sends us on a study tour to Thailand and other countries that are far ahead of us in coconut value-addition, that will help us greatly." 

Coconut Development Board, he mentions, has helped him great deal in this venture. Under the Coconut Technology Mission, CDB has given them financial aid for marketing efforts. Similarly, he acknowledges the co-operation of many officers of horticultural department, professors of UAS Bangalore, Hopcoms top-brass and managements of software companies. 

Looking back, Yogesh is happy. "We are satisfied because we could make headway and success in the field we have been educated and to find out an altogether new market for a product my and many other neighbourhood families are growing." 

Thailand, with its negligible 3% production, has captured the number one position in value-adding tender coconuts in various forms. It exports differently beauty-added & value added tender coconuts to many developed countries like Japan, UK, USA, etc. Two thirds of its 1.119 million coconuts are either consumed fresh or value added and marketed inland or exported. There are some Thai exporters who trade in various coconut products including tender coconuts for which some of the companies claim 3 to 4 months shelf-life under refrigeration. Tourists are attracted to different deserts & coconut preparations. Websites describe the high nutrient value of tender coconut water and have step by step photos and descriptions showing how to open and eat a tender coconut. Of course they call our tender coconut as 'young coconut.' 

The time is right for CDB to study the Thai achievement in coconut value addition and try to promote the same here in our country. Sources at Coconut Development Board express helplessness saying that Thailand's industries and horticulture departments are very secretive about their coconut value-addition techniques. It must still be possible to make progress, because, after all, most of the techniques involved are not very elaborate or complex. In many cases, just beautiful presentation is what sells ordinary products. 

With health consciousness growing among consumers and state governments inclined to act over pesticide residues in bottled drinks, the timing may be perfect to promote our best available natural drink, tender coconut, inside our own country as well as to the overseas consumers. With the changing lifestyle of the urban middle class and more and more 'ready to use' eatable and drinks turning into the 'in thing', tender coconut will also like have an increasing number of takers if it can be provided in comfortable form. 

Friday, January 21, 2011

From Snow Ball to Coconut Lassi

This Kochi couple's one-year-old enterprise is perhaps the only serious attempt to market snow ball tender coconut so far. And in their response to irregularity of supply, they introduced the coconut lassi. 

Tender coconut is a natural health supplement that has considerable nutrients. The white meat of fairly grown up tender coconut is a mini meal in itself. A glass of coconut lassi, a drink made by churning out the tender coconut juice and the white meat would easily keep the hunger away for 4 - 5 hours.


Thailand, a small country with only 6.73 per cent of world's coconut production is in the forefront of tender coconut value addition today. It is providing livelihood for thousands of families. Though we in India produce 27.08 per cent of world's coconuts, except for selling tender coconut as it is, we haven't achieved value additions worth the name and scale. 

Snow Ball Tender Coconut or STBC, ready to eat. Customers drink the inner juice first by piercing a straw. Later, with the help of a fork and knife, the ball is made into small pieces to eat. 

Snow Ball Tender Coconut - SBTC -- is a promising value addition of tender coconut. It is nothing but the soft white ball obtained after neatly removing the outer shell. Central Plantation Crops Research Institute (CPCRI) based at Kasaragod, Kerala has developed a machine to help produce SBTC. A food cum drink, this product has good potential to attract tourists and visitors who have not experienced the taste of tender coconut. 

How to eat, nay, drink snowball tender coconut? It is served in a cup or wrapped in a tissue paper. Customers drink the inner juice first by piercing a straw. Later, with the help of a fork and knife, the ball is made into small pieces to eat. 

Biju Balakrishnan's (31) one year old small enterprise, Kairali Snowball Tender Coconut at Kochi is perhaps the only serious attempt to market SBTC so far. Operating from his house, Biju has been supplying SBTC to a regular clientele he has built up including some city hospitals. 

The SBTC cutting machine he has bought from Mangalore on CPCRI's recommendation has cost Biju Rs.19,000. It has a half HP electricity motor and a circular blade. By carefully handling this machine, skilled workers can the coconut shell without damaging the inner meat portion. 

Biju Balakrishnan and wife Deepa are graduates. Initially, to get twenty finished products, he had to use fifty raw tender coconuts. Now, he dehusks the nut and cuts the shell with the machine's help. Wife Deepa does the rest. Peeling the ball out and removing the testa (brown outer layer) is her responsibility. "If you are experienced, starting from dehusking to snowball, it takes only five minutes."says he.

Practical issues
Soon Biju realised that there are many hurdles in his path. The first one was non-availability is the right kind of tender coconut. To make SBTC, seven month old tender coconut is just right. If it's still tender, the ball can't be removed intact. Even if this is achieved, it won't stand transportation. Grown up ones won't be tasty, the inner juice would be sourish. 

The CRPCRI literature claims that snowball tender coconuts 'can be used till 10-15 days if kept inside fridge.' "But in reality, its taste changes", points out Biju, "from the very next day." Even with utmost care, certain amount of breakage of balls can't be avoided. 

                                                        Biju's tender coconut products. 
 
To use the broken balls productively, Biju started a product - Tender coconut lassi - what he calls as Elaneer juice. Blended with a dash of cardamom, this was instantly accepted by his customers. He sells 200 ml hand-sealed packet of this drink for Rs.10. As production of SBTC turned irregular, he made Elaneer Juice his main product. 

Whenever the right type of raw tender coconuts are available, he makes SBTC. Neatly packed in plastic bags, it is sold to the canteens of three leading hospitals for Rs.17. The canteens sell it for Rs.25. "There are a few doctors who are regular customers of my snowball, but I'm sorry that I can't keep up the supply regularly. As getting raw material is uncertain, I'm not in a position to accept advance orders. In fact, if regular supply can be maintained, good market can be developed for SBTC." 

After packing, Biju keeps the Elaneer juice in his freezer. Hours later it's transferred into thermocol cooler box for transportation. After reaching the hospital canteens, the packets are transferred to their fridge. "If kept in fridge, it remains for three days", he points out, "in fact, this product is better accepted than SBTC." 

"It is the north Indians who like the snowball more. Cardamom flavor of the juice as a special attraction for most of them", says he.  

Coconut lassi
Everyday, this couple produces 50 to 100 Elaneer juice packets. As it is a home product, they haven't put a brand name to it. "Neither can I afford media advertisements. Yet once in a while, we get orders for functions and marriages", says Deepa proudly. 

One such memorable occasion was when they were asked to serve this natural drink for the two day All India Physicians meet held at Kochi last year. Each day, they had to supply 750 packets. "It was a great occasion", Biju recalls, "Good number of doctors drank two packets." Marriage order means a market for 500 drinks at one stretch. 

Ernakulam Lake Shore Hospital, Ernakulam Medical Centre and Wellcare Hosiptal are the three big customers for Elaneer juice. Doctors, nurses and members of patients' households who stay with them are its regular buyers. "The main virtue of our products", according to Balakrishnan, "is that it's natural; I think that's why the customers like it." One north Indian doctor was so impressed that he took a few snowball tender coconuts in a cool box in the plane to share with his family members. 

Another big break was two small stints he got to sell his products in city's water park Veegaland. He could sell 150 juices each day on average. Whenever raw material was there, 50-60 snowballs as well. 

Kerala's agriculture department has given an incentive of Rs.20,000 to Biju to start this home industry. The biggest challenge to this business is rain. Kerala has 4-5 months of rain. As such to cling on to this profession in monsoon is not possible. "Practically, this is only half years business. I'm able to save something only because it's a low investment enterprise. I'm raking up my brain to explore the possibilities of earning money from the same raw material in monsoon too. " 

                                                         Deepa and Biju Balakrishnan. 

Tender coconut ice-cream is a product Balakrishna has set his mind to. But, again, it can't be produced and sold in rainy season. "Carbonated tender coconut water is a possibility. This technology is there in the state. But major problem is that it requires huge investment", he explains. Biju hopes that if good quality bottled tender coconut can be produced, there may be a market worth exploring in bars which will be less impacted during rainy days. Summer rains and unexpected rainy days - like this year's - too cause him considerable loss. 

This couple had very high hopes on marketing SBTC. "Even now as and when I get right raw material, we keep doing it. Say about 750 in a month in the season." If only a regular supply network can be built up to send snowball to the nearby famous boat house centres of Aleppey and tourist centres like Kumarakam and Munnar, this product would click among the northern and offshore tourists. 

Though the returns aren't very attractive, the couple have not given up hope. "However, this income is not suffice us to make a living. As such, I deal a little bit with real estate and share business to make both ends meet", says Biju. 

The Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) of US has reportedly developed a technology by which tender coconut juice can be preserved and sold for three weeks in a specially built mobile can. Such technologies would help such home scale industries.

Friday, December 17, 2010

In north Karnataka, dried banana bits are a hit

For the last one year, Parameshwara Hegde Tumbemane hasn’t taken his banana crop to the market. He has instead used it to make sukeli, a delicious dried version and that is getting popular in the Uttara Kannada district, Karnataka.

22 September 2010 - Parameshwara Hegde Tumbemane has reasons to be happy. They sell it in a value added form by making sukeli – dehydrated banana bits. One of their neighbourhood farmers buys this in bulk and does the marketing. 

“This requires good amount of labour”, adds his wife Vinutha. But she enjoys it because “This is a work that doesn’t require us to go out of our houses. Quite suitable for housewives like me.”
 
Banana is an important intercrop amidst arecanut (supari) in this part of Uttara Kannada district of Karnataka. Since the beginning of nineties, this crop was totally ravaged due to katte roga - the viral disease called bunchy top. It is only since the last 5 years, banana crop has slowly come out of that viral attack. 

Sukeli, the dehydrated banana . 

Sukeli, suka keli or dehydrated banana isn’t a new product for the district. In earlier decades it was produced in a crude form for household consumption. Recent introduction of dryers in the district has facilitated sukeli production in a methodic way for the market. 

Farmers Shripad G Hegde Uratota and Mahesh Hegde Tumbemane were the first to get a drier installed four years ago. Their experiments with sukeli production and trial marketing have given confidence to the neighbors. Now, five families of this area are producing sukeli using their home grown banana. 

Two self help groups Prerana Svasahaya Sangha comprising of Mahesh Hegde, Parameshwar Hegde, Narasimha Bhat, Manjunath Hegde and S G Hegde and Shrimatha Svasahaya Sangha comprising of their wives are utilizing their spare time for sukeli production. Well ripened banana fruits are peeled and dried in the drier for two days. After two days drying, it is neatly cut into pieces using a small manual gadget. One round of production totally takes 4-5 days. In a month, four rounds of production are generally done. 

Though as banana fresh fruit is widely available, the dry banana is a new product at the market. Grown by and large organically, it is quite nutritious. “It is easy to carry while traveling and is good for providing quick energy”, claims Shripad Hegde. Each 100 grams of sukeli has 83.7 gram of carbohydrates, 3.56 gms of Protein, 170 mg Calcium, 90 mg of Phosphorous in addition to a dash of iron. Without adding any chemical or other preservatives, sukeli has a shelf-life of eight months. 

Shripada has shouldered the responsibility of marketing this value added product. Since he has been producing sukeli off and on from two years, he was able to identify some buyers. He buys sukeli in bulk from other households keeping a margin. Apart from 100 gram packets, one Kg packs are done for distant markets like Hubli, Tumkur, Shimoga and Bangalore. The 100 gram packets are sold for Rs 20. Sales at local Sirsi town are only name-sake. 

Sukeli production itself doesn’t keep the driers busy all the time. There is sufficient spare time left. One additional product these families have producing during last few months is jackfruit bits. 

Flakes of the soft fleshed jackfruit times – locally called as ambali – generally doesn’t have much use. It is not preferred for table purpose. More than often these type of fruits go wasted.

‘Trupti’ has got an indent for bulk jackfruit bit production from a sweet-meat shop owner of Tumkur. Flakes of jackfruits made into a pulp and dried in the drier. Later, using a cutting device, the jackfruit mats are cut into small pieces.

Unripe banana pappad is another product these housewives are now producing – using the spare capacity of the drier. 
A kg of sukeli is sold for 150 Rs. “At an average, this brings us an added income of 30%” points out Mahesh Hegde. Of course, the percentage will vary depending on the variety of banana fruit used for drying. Of late, a slightly different type of product is made for the distant consumers. It is called ‘Masala Sukeli’. To make this, a dash of few spices are applied to the regular product. 

Another new experiment is making sukeli available in small 200 gram Polypropylene packets under the brand name – Trupti. Being sold at Rs.40, this, according to Shripad Hegde, has good take-home demand in Sirsi town itself. After the introduction of these professional looking packets, selected hotels, bakeries and sweet-marts sell this. According to Hegde, “most of the customers buy sukeli as a time-pass product.” 

Shripada Hegde Urathota showing the products.

The drier runs on agriculture waste that is abundantly available in supari gardens. Depending on their requirements, these families have bought 25 or 50 Kg capacity driers. For example, Mahesh Hegde has bought the bigger drier for Rs 43,000. Syndicate Bank has given a loan of Rs 2 lakh Rs that includes cost of driers and working capital. 

One Kg of ripe fruit makes 250 grams of sukeli. Being farm families, this value addition activity is done using only family labour and spare time. As such, this is a limitation. On a few occasions, these families had brought banana from wholesale market. In the last one year, all the five families put together have produced six quintals of sukeli. “The demand is good. We wanted to produce one tonne. But could make only 60% of our target”, says Shripada Hegde. 

Dehydrated banana is a new product for rest of Karnataka state. As such, ‘Trupti’ is getting more and more trade inquiries. Being a side-profession, this small group is not able to promote sukeli in a big way. In fact, it can be a god additive for dry fruit salad. With demonstrations and proper product promotion, it can be used to make payasa and deserts like banana burfi. In fact, “Trupti’ makes sukeli in a diamond shape for supplying to Tumkur sweet meat shop for the preparation of banana burfi. 

“Sukeli is a well-known household product in our district now. The raw material – banana is grown everywhere. Since dry banana is popular with children, many farmer families are regularly producing it”, says Arunkumar Joshi whose Joshi and Company of Sirsi is making dryers. In the last one decade, this company has installed around 500 driers in the nook and corner of Uttara Kannada district. According to Joshi, apart from ‘Trupti’, there are half a dozen farming families who are regularly producing sukeli for the market. 

Points out Shivananda Dikshit, Senior Manager, Syndicate Bank Regional Office at Karwar, “It is really a product with much more scope. There is very good demand. But the shelf life has to be improved.” Adds he, “Now that the farming sector is in great crisis, this side-profession that can be run by family labour can be a good model for Uttara Kannada.” 

Shivanand’s observation is right. Most of the arecanut farmers in Uttara Kannada grow bananas as intercrop. Hundreds of agricultural driers are installed at arecanut farms for different purposes. As such, production of sukeli is only two steps away from many households. 

Farmers themselves adding value to the crop they have grown. ‘Trupti’s small success can be an inspiration and a trend-setter to whole of Uttara Kannada district in the years to come.

Sunday, December 12, 2010

Kuch Meetha Ho Jaaye?

Ever woken up in the middle of the night craving for sweets? Naah, I do not mean the American cheese cake or the Black Forest cake, but the typical Indian mithai? I never buy sweets from the Indian stores. Naah, it is not what you are thinking about weight watching and all that crap. I had once bought 10 laddus in all of 4 varieties on a Friday evening, wanting to share it with my wife. The entire weekend I had spent dipped in bucketful of guilt, having eaten all the laddus even before the poor laddus got the chance to see a new week.


People have a sweet tooth. I claim that all my 28 teeth are sweet. And of all the days, I had to crave for sweets when I didn’t even have milk at home. Had it been a kid craving for sweets and throwing a tantrum, I would have pacified it with something else to divert its attention. But how to pacify the kid in me that refused to let go without having something sweet?

Irritated and grumpy with myself, I got out of bed, brushed, and put on my thinking cap. I wish I could go back to sleep fantasizing about sweets, but that was not happening. Think, think, something had to be done to mollify these sudden bouts of sweet craving.

It is then that I heard the next door guy use the microwave. Still awake so late? I could already see my plan taking shape.

* Went out and told him hi, and gave him my sweetest smile.


* Told him that I barely saw him these days and if he was working very hard to get that Nobel prize he rightfully deserved (that was just silly conversation I was making, wink* wink**).

*Opened the fridge and scooped out a whole large spoonful of vegetable curry for him, telling him that this is a North Indian delicacy I was planning to share with him (in truth, that was some curry I was least interested in eating, so in a way, I was trying to get rid of it by feigning hospitality. Arre kya hai, apne Thailand mein to he must be eating lizards and cockroach eggs, so anything else I offered him must be better).

*Delved into the fridge, digging my nose into it and then making incoherent regret moans. Tsk tsk.

* Told him that since I had to keep awake at night studying, I came looking for some coffee, but it’s fine since I did not have milk.

Thankfully, my plan worked and he almost jumped at me, trying to strangle me for not letting him help the me in distress. “Oh no milk? Take it from me. And don’t ask me again, if you need for coffee, take it anytime you want”.

I started to act all coy and “no-no, thank you so much but I’ll survive without milk” stuff, but after he left and shut his door and before he could open the door again, telling me that he had changed his mind about the milk and being helpful, I grabbed at it.


Coffee be darned, I filled half the frying pan with milk (What? That was a mini-frying pan, so stop looking at me like that). Put it on low flame and left it that way. But what to do with milk? Think, think.

Suddenly, a brilliant idea hit me (no, I didn't run back to his room screaming Eureka Eureka, ahem !!!). I had this huge packet of cereal I have for breakfast that was quite misleadingly called “Honey bunches of oats with almonds”. I had bought it all greedy about the almond part, only to discover that there was one thin shaving of one-twentieth of an almond for every five spoonful of cereal. So the next 20 minutes was spent ripping open the cereal packet, hand picking the almond shavings, and putting it into the milk. Thankfully, I remembered mom telling someone always to add the sugar last while boiling milk so that it did not get charred.

[almond.JPG]

So for the next 2 hours, the milk with tiny shavings of almond boiled. Two hours later when the milk had almost reduced to half its volume and had a brownish, thicker consistency to it post addition of the sugar, I knew my food was ready. I knew not what I had made of it and if it was an American version of payesh (payasam, kheer, or whatever you call it). But one mouthful and I was going mmmm mmmmmm mmmmm. I thought it tasted a little like rasmalai, a little like rabri (not the Rabri Devi wali Rabri you Laloo Lal, hehe), a little like kheer, and what not. The malai (what do you call it otherwise) had stuck to the walls of the pan with a thickness of almost a few millimeters, and ummmm… scraping it out with the steel spoon, the almond bits embedded in it was just…. just… just….Heavenly !!! It was then that I knew how a pregnant Ambar must have felt in Salaam Namaste making those orgasmic mating calls while having that Ben n Jerry’s something something dark chocolate ice cream.


I licked my lips like a greedy cat, and man, finally after 4am, it was the “sweetest” sleep I had. All puns intended.

Chalo, ab bahut kuch meetha ho gaya.

Monday, November 8, 2010

ybrid hunger solutions

Dominos India introduced a 'cheeseburger pizza'. It's kind of ironic because a couple of years ago the burger people - McDonald's - introduced the 'Pizza McPuff'.

Well, I had a taste of the new hybrid pizza and must say it was surprisingly good. I use the word surprise because I'm not a satisfied Dominos customer.

Originally we ordered Dominos because it was the only home delivery pizza available where we lived. Now there's a Smoking Joes (which is infinitely better) but I can never recall the number. And so, Dominos wins every time.

Besides, Dominos keeps dropping coupons by your house with this or that offer. And one fine day when you're tired of the cooking but too tired to go out and eat either, you see their flyer with the cheese doing a nach balliye with the toppings and say, 'let's order!'

However 8 times out of 10 I have been unhappy with the pizza when it actually arrived. The base is too thick and elasticky in your mouth. The pizza too bland. Or, exotic sounding but ordinary.

In fact the non-pizza items on the menu have always been more satisfying. The twisty bread, garlic breadstick and most of all the Cinna Stix with Apple Dip.

Mmm ..accha hai
Well, this time was different. The 'cheeseburger pizza' was good. The good thing was I didn't know what I was biting into or I may have had a less objective opinion. A cheeseburger pizza, after all, sounds pretty 'cheesy'.

This pizza had a filling and a topping. The filling reminded me more of pav bhaji than a 'burger' but the overall effect was good. The concept seemed to be inspired by our desi stuffed parathas than a burger if you ask me. But 'paratha pizza' may not have sounded that cool.

Of course, I am sure the extra layers of cheese + the burger filling = many, many more calories than regular pizzas. So, plan to have two slices instead of three.

And yeah, do check out their new 'India' website. The steam rising from the pizza featured on the home page is a great idea. Makes you actually want to order now.

But no, I'm trying to shed some weight and so will firmly resist!

One day they'll figure out how to add smell to the cyber equation and then.. well it won't be that easy.

Shoots, eats and leaves

Nope, I didn't get the book title all mixed up. This is the exact sequence of events at the average I-know-you-barely-but-must-attend-your-wedding scenario.

The invitation came from a known friend of my father's whom we have dealt with closely over the last 14 years. So had he not invited us for his son's wedding thoda bura bhi lagta. And having been invited we had to turn up. Knowing fully well we will know not a single soul at the event.

So what do you do? Land up, stand in line, wish the happy couple, hand over the bouquet and get the mandatory picture clicked. Then, you head straight for the food and boy - was it great!

This was one of those classy Gujju weddings held in an open air ground. So while there was opulence in the air, unlike the similar weddings I've seen in Delhi, everything was pleasantly understated.

Yes, there were some 25 different food counters - including pasta, stir fry, chaat, salad, crostini, north Indian, south Indian, Gujarati and what have you. Plus a separate 'without onion/ garlic' counter. But the best part was the portions - everything had been made in mini-size servings so you could try 10 different things but end up wasting very little.

As for the dessert counter - it had a 'chocolate fountain'! OK, not as grand as the kind you'd see in 'Charlie and the Chocolate Factory'. This was basically a variation of the fondue pot. Dipping bits of fruit or bread or whatever into the chocolate was fun though it didn't taste all that great.

But all put together... Mmm, it was good.

Shaadi ke prakaar

Weddings are like sentences - they come in three forms:

* 'First person' : When you are the one getting married
I am sure many people have memorable, perfect weddings. Mine - crammed with relatives and rituals - passed by in a blur. Years later you look at your ghastly pics in a photo album with a ghastlier red rose on it and vaguely recall "this happened"

* 'Second person': When someone close to you gets married
This is the best kind of wedding. You get an excuse to shop for sequinned outfits and matching purse/ footwear without worrying about in laws, joint accounts and 'shall I change my surname or not?'

Of course, if the one getting married is too close to you - like a brother, favourite cousin or best friend - you may have to volunteer for some of the 'work' as well. Such as ferrying people from railway stations and airports, keeping track of gifts and envelopes or minding the bride's suitcase filled with jewelery... Grin and bear it!

* 'Third person': When someone barely known to you is getting married
This can be the most boring of all events. Or extremely interesting. I have to admit that I have attended very few marriages ... specially when I was at school and we were dragged by parents to alien marriage parties. Protocol followed - wish, eat and come back)

Marriages have more or less become important venues to flaunt the wealth one has... Here in the South, The Chettiyars are supposed to exhibit whatever they pass on to the marrying couples. They stack hundreds of big vessels, old cauldrons etc (of all sizes, numbers, types :)) ) in a separate room. Their food is also too good. The next nitty gritty is about the gift :) How big someone brings a gift has been made into a rib-tickling comedy into one of the Tamil movies.

The fact that you know very few people there means you don't have pressure to dress up too much and look your best. But you have every right to check out what the others are wearing and pass judgement without feeling guilty.

But like I said, the real deciding factor is the food... A great wedding feast has a charm of all its own.

Enjoy the next one that comes your way!

Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Just say no - to food!

'Thin epidemic strikes' reports a leading daily. A shocking 60% of students are underweight, a 2009-10 report of the Education Ministry's dept of Student Welfare says.

I am not surprised. The wanna-be-thin-at-any-cost mania is quite visible all around us. Try shopping at any of the 'happening' boutiques in any of the metro's and the message is clear - If you're a size 'S', the whole shop is your oyster. An 'M' has some hope. Beyond that - forget it absolutely.

Thing is, the boutiques import clothes from Thailand and Hong Kong where women are generally petite. Whereas Indian women - even at their absolutely correct body weight in medical terms - are more curvy. Which is why to carry off clingy Western clothing, underweight is the way to go!

Now some girls may be born skinny, but others achieve skinniness and yet others will do anything to get that way. 'Anything' includes not just saying no to pakodas but skipping meals, or consuming the bare minimum.

And some of these 'girls' really should know better.

Ms. Shobhaa De, columnist, commentator on every which issue, marriage and family expert and mother to 4 young ladies in their teens and twenties weighs 52 kilos. At 5 ft 5 1/2 inches that's not exactly 'ideal weight range'. 58 kilos is more like what the doctor ordered.

Shobha De's 'diet'
Breakfast: 5 almonds 1 glass of warm water with tulsi leaves and honey.
1 whole-wheat toast.
1 cup of black tea.

Lunch: 1 glass of fruit lassi OR 1 boiled egg.
WOW - that must be filling!

Evening: 2 Marie biscuits with 1 cup of black tea.

Dinner: 1 portion of fish or mutton curry in Bengali preparation, a small portion of green leafy vegetables, 2 chapattis made from whole wheat Punjabi atta.

Calories consumed: Approximately 915 calories
Normal intake for adult female: 1800-2000 calories


Dietician Naini comments: “Shobhaa’s calorie intake is very low for a person who has such an active lifestyle. She needs to add more fruits to her diet and have a bowl of salad and some curd besides the lassi for lunch. Or maybe, she could do with an egg, a whole wheat toast and a bowl of salad.”

If a 50 + (almost 60 year old!) woman can be so paranoid about her weight as to skip lunch and practically starve herself, can you blame 16 year olds?

Talk about role models.

Men have stomachs, women eat air
The director of a Delhi-based management institute remarked there is a big problem when it comes to deciding what food should be cooked in the hostel mess. "The boys want parathas, cutlets, pakodas - the girls just won't eat that stuff... In fact they eat little, if anything at all!"

Actually, if you check out the canteen menus of most colleges, you'll find it hardly reflects the current obsession with thinness. The menus are stuck in the 1950s!

Counselling and educating girls, is fine. But, you can't fight a global trend. So making healthy eats more easily available is also important.

College managements need to take a fresh look at the food they're dishing out. Keep the samosas but also include some fruits, salads, fresh juices and even healthy alternatives to junk food like sprout bhel, chapati rolls and butter-free sandwiches.

The menu could even specify how many calories each item has to make it easier for the weight-conscious to stick to their diets. I am quite petite myself. And like someone else had mentioned in the comment section, I never gain weight even if I over-eat. I guess, I one of those lucky ones. Anyway, I think Shobha De will look much better if she gained a little weight. She looks too skinny, and her diet is responsible for it.

Looking good is necessary, but you should not be too obsessed with the thought that it leads you to starvation. It is good to exercise, and keeping yourself fit if you are overweight - for your own good. But being anorexic is not healthy either.

Exercising or having an active life style after all is too hard (I can vouch for that). Another instance of accepting the western definition of "in" thing with blinding stupidity. Incidentally, these are the people who devour pepperoni pizza with double cheese, but insist on diet pepsi/coke with less than 1 calorie! With enough advertising budget, you can convince people that they are outright dumb.

The root of all evil are those stupid ads on the television which drive people towards thinking that anorexia helps them look beautiful. What they do not realise is that Good on the outside, bad on the inside is going to get them nowhere. It might be palatable to earn a svelte figure, but watch your calories before you have nothing left to burn. Anorexic tendencies should definitely be curbed by self and see that restraint is more sensible. Eat and exercise but don't quit totally !

Enough food for thought... my lunch is waiting!

ABCD - Apna Bhartiya Chinese Dish

There are two kinds of office complexes in a metro - the fab and the drab.

The first kind consist of steel, chrome and glass. Blue and orange carpeting, Nescafe machines near the elevators - the kind of offices you see in interior design magazines.

The second are situated in drab 'industrial estates' which haven't been whitewashed since the last time Rajesh Khanna made a girl swoon... Which was, ahem, quite a while ago.

The one bright spot in these kind of office complexes is the canteen boy from the mandatory Udipi restaurant on the premises.

These grubby but ever-cheerful young fellas ferry coffees and dosas and samosas stuffed with the alu bhaji left over from lunchtime. Last week, our canteen boy proudly came and announced -'Ab Chainis start ho gaya hai'. Promptly, we all placed inaugural orders.

Be Indian, Eat Indian
Udipi 'Chainis' is a unique brand of cuisine, an advanced version of the Indian family of Chinese khaana peculiar to this part of the world.

Vir Sanghvi, writing in his 'Rude Food' column credits Nelson Wang of China Garden with 'inventing' Indian Chinese. That was in the early '70s. Before that a few fancy restaurants served 'authentic Chinese'. And it found hardly any takers.

Then, one day Wang deep fried some gobi florets, dunked them in a hot n spicy Indian style sauce and came up with the exotic sounding name 'Manchurian' and Chinese was permanently de-chinkified and took on Indian culinary citizenship.

Well, Udipi Chainis is the baap of even Indian Chainis. It consists of noodles or rice with finely diced carrot and French beans, cooked in an oily kadhai with generous slatherings of soya sauce. Then there are 'gravy items' with either chicken or veg fried something-or-the-others. Here the sauce is more viscous, garlicky and generally either dark brown or bright red. Actually in large parts of south India - especially in restaurants of mallu origin the name has been changed to "Manjuri" from manchurian!

I started appreciating the divinity (seriously) and deliciously different taste of “hamara” Indian Chinese food. Here'z to the Indians and there innovativeness in …..well everything ;).

Yes, Indian Chainees is quite tasty :-) but now we have moved on to the Chinese samosa...samosas with noodle stuffing...am sure the Chinese must be wondering why they did not think of this before...and no Gujju Chainees will work for non-veggie.


Believe me.. but the chinese in India tastes much better in India than what it tastes in China.. IT IS ABSOLUTELY EEEEEEKY..!!

The only good thing is that you realise that shcezwan and manchuria are 2 different areas in China and the food tastes differs with the regions.. while the schezwan prefer the hot food.. the manchurians are more towards the bland side.. also there is the third form of chinese food in China and it something with k.. i fail to recall the name.. anways.. Udipi chinese is a bit too much.. but it sure is no harm in trying..!!

We Indians have this habit of adapting to changes...but guess the common man will always get what he wants as far as food is concerned- Indianzied version of a foreign thing. Not only food but also if one remembers ad's of foreign products - the one that comes in my mind right now is that of a cellotape (see I made American scotch tape to English Cellotape - it had some punch line like "no kat-ka-tu" ...and all of a sudden it was given an Indian feel!

Its all about demand and supply after all!

Anyways my first crush with Chinese was when i had Sweet corn chicken soup at the famous Bheel restaurant in Udaipur long ago during my school days. It was an occasional indulgence as a change from home food.

Now, the real Chinese food is something no one can imagine. The first reaction would be yuccckk!!! How on earth can anyone eat something as bland as this? No wonder it's the "Indian Chinese" food that rules in India.

Imagine the head of the state in China literally holding a platter in front of the Indian counterpart for the sake of cuisine competition. This one's definitely a filler for the next Bollywood movie 'China Plate'

And remember, Udipi Chinees is most compatible with that industrial strength Indian cola : 'Thums Up'. Enjoy the satisfying burp!

Bottomline: Indian food - especially curry and naan - has become hugely popular in many parts of the world. From there, it may just be a short step to 'Indianised' world cuisine - like Indian Chainis. Then maybe a further specialisation: 'Gujju Chinese'.

And thus, will India bring mighty China to its knees - begging for mercy!

Tuesday, October 12, 2010

Kuch ghaas nahin

"One ounce of wheatgrass is equivalent to more than 2.5 lbs of leafy-green vegetables," screamed the signboard at  Juice Zone, a 'juice bar' franchise at the local mall.

As a compulsive tryer-of-new-things, I could not resist. So I forked out 25 bucks for the 'super juice that is a concentration of essential amino acids, vitamins, minerals, enzymes and cholorophyll'.

Well, it's 'fresh' - that's for sure. They uproot the grass growing in a box right in front of you. Then they wash it and plonk it into a mixer. Voila - wheatgrass juice ready for consumption.

How does it taste? Slightly sweeter than you'd expect but vile nevertheless. Luckily, you only get a small 'shot' of it in a cup which looks like it's stolen from a kiddie kitchen set.

Curious to know more about the 'health benefits', I did a net search. There are many who swear by its efficacy but some have expressed doubts - and I lean towards that school of thought.

Unfortunately there’s little scientific evidence that juiced wheatgrass provides these benefits. And while it may be a good way of getting a limited amount of a whole range of nutrients, it’s certainly not a direct substitute for a kilo of veggies. Plus, if it’s extracted juice, there’s no fibre in it.

On the other hand it’s probably harmless, and makes an interesting alternative to a coffee or Coke — as long as you can bear the taste!


Here's an even more bizarre piece of information. The idea that wheatgrass can benefit serious disease sufferers was conceived by one Ann Wigmore.

Claims are that the juice "cleanses" the body, neutralizes toxins, slows the aging process, and prevents cancer.

Wigmore's theory on the healing power of grasses was predicated upon the Biblical story of Babylonian king Nebuchadnezzar who spent seven years, insane, living like a wild animal eating the grass of the fields. Because he recovered, Wigmore theorized that the grasses had cured his insanity. The common observation that dogs and cats nibble on grass, presumably when they feel ill, also strengthened Wigmore's belief in the healing power of grasses.

The fact that grass-eating animals are not spared from cancer, despite their large intake of fresh chlorophyll, seems to have been lost on Wigmore. In fact, chlorophyll cannot "detoxify the body" since it is not absorbed.

In 1988, the Massachusetts Attorney General sued Wigmore for claiming that her "energy enzyme soup" could cure AIDS. In fact, when challenged legally, Wigmore backed away from healing claims stating that she merely had an "educational program" to teach people how to "cleanse" their bodies and make vegetable juices.


Moral of the story: You won't get a high of any sort on this grass! Just eat your green leafy veggies at home and dig into the junk food at the mall once in a while and you'll be OK.

After all human beings weren't designed to eat chaara. With the exception of the honourable Laloo Prasad Yadav...

Monday, October 11, 2010

Stomach this

In countries where order and sanity prevails, young people get their dose of thrills by bungee jumping and mountain biking. In India, the most popular - and easily accessible - adventure a young person can seek out is street food.

Yes, even as Macs, Dominos and Subways sprout up everywhere, the Kailash Parbats and Brijwasis expand their reach and completely new outlets like 'Wraps n Rolls' enter our food courts, street food continues to flourish.

If anything, there's more of it now than there used to be and it's also cooler to eat off the streets than to be a sissy and say, "Sorry I don't have that stuff".


I still am that kind of person - it was the way we were brought up. Carry tiffin with you, eat at a place with a table, if you really must.

Even on the annual trips and outings, when hicktown cousins came a-visiting, we'd drag along a picnic basket full of aloo-puri. The max you were allowed to buy was a bhutta.

Though I am now 'a bit converted', the fear still lingers... However I see no such inhibitions with the majority of the college junta of today!

Khaate raho
Why is street food so popular? Well I guess because of two factors:
a) It's cheap and it's everywhere: If you can whip up a decent bhelpuri, rest assured you will make a living in any city. Even after paying off the Corporation tax and cops for standing under a tree somewhere.

And you can sell your bhel for 7 bucks vs the 15 rupees it will cost in an Udipi, or 20 bucks in a mall.

Besides, the 'wallahs' are at every street corner and outside every college. Just seeing the little crowd of people standing there waiting for their food fix makes you hungry!

b) It's unique: Unlike the mass produced mastication material churned out by chains and even Udipi restaurants, street food vendors often have the X factor.

And those that do become 'famous' for particular concoctions. Like the dosawallahs, the sandwichwallahs and so on and so forth.

The famous guys actually command pretty good prices. I'd like to visit their homes and check out what cars they drive!

Dirty secrets
Coming back to the adventure bit. Well, 99% of this street food is made and served in the most unhygienic and filthy conditions. Guess it gets that raw and edgy 'flavour' partly from the kholis and jhuggis.

The trick to eating street food is to never stare too closely at the vendor's grimy nails or the water in which the plates are washed.


One news daily once did a story on the 'dirtiest secrets' in street food and guess what. There are some big time bhelwallahs who mash potatos with their knees...

And yet, people who eat this food are not dropping like flies. Of course, at any given time there are hepatitis and amoebiosis cases going around but on the whole, the regulars seem to have developed an acceptable level of immunity.

From time to time - like during the jaundice epidemic some years back - the Corporations came out with 'rules'. For example, all vendors were asked to wear plastic gloves. And no cooking per se was to be allowed - only assembly of food such as sandwiches, bhel etc.

But neither rule is being followed. Chinese carts are still around. And the gloves were quickly discarded because
a) No one came to fine those who didn't wear 'em
b) Customers didn't seem to care either!

It's the second bit that's actually more disconcerting...

The future of street food

I think street food is definitely something which is desirable. All of south east Asia and even a country as advanced as Japan is fond of its street food.

The FAO (Food and Agriculture Organisation) is working with local governments to upgrade street food standards. Visit Bangkok - a country not all that ahead of India - and the hygiene levels are amazing. Didn't just happen by magic though - it took effort . The problems were very similar, but they've been successfully tackled.

But it seems to me that changing attitudes will be difficult as long as the majority of vendors live in pretty miserable housing and sanitation conditions. When hygiene isn't a part of their lives anyways - how can it be reflected in their food?

And so, the adventure continues...

Tuesday, October 5, 2010

Kaun flakes ?

On my table lies an "information kit" from Kellogg's India - courtesy of some hyper-efficient PR agency - which states:

"Kellogg India and the Indian Medical Association launch month-long 'anaemia-free India" campaign".

Wonderful. This is all part of a larger plan to have an anaemia free India by the year 2015. A noble objective, given that "90% of adolescent girls, women and children in India suffer from the deficiency".

And what is the solution to the problem? Kelloggs believes that:

a) "One of the most effective ways of communicating the message on the importance of diet in addressing anaemia is through collaborative efforts between health professional associations and the food industry committed to the cause... "

b) "Iron fortification of basic foods is the most essential, economic and convenient approach to address this health condition, as it does not require food habit modifications."

So far, so good. But further into the press release the company points out: "A typical Indian diet, being largely vegetarian, might not be able to meet the daily requirements of iron due to limited iron-rich vegetarian foods and lower bio-availability of these resources."

It goes on to declare...
"A single 30 g serving of Kelloggs cornflakes, fortified to deliver 25% RDA (Recommended Dietary Allowance) of iron is one of the best vegetarian sources of iron (underlined by them, not me). Moreover it provides 50% RDA of Vitamin C another critical factor that enhances iron absorption."

Never mind that a family of 4 guzzling 30 g of Kellogg's cornflakes a day will end up finishing a 500 gm pack costing Rs 120 in 4 days flat.

A formula which adds to our health and their wealth. As the average household would spend about 900 bucks a month on cornflakes...

Ground realities
I'm no dietician, but surely adding green leafy vegetables to your diet is a far cheaper solution? And 'fortification' of basic food is more easily done in the form of adding shredded paalak or methi to ones atta and dal (we do it regularly).

One of my friends used to have fainting spells - due to anaemia. A pack of dates (khajoor) costing around 10 bucks is what my doctor recommended to him. It is, I am told, the cheapest and most effective source of iron.

Now of course, Kelloggs being a commercial entity will try to have a commercial angle while supporting this 'noble cause' - and not promote spinach or dates. So go ahead, sell us your cornflakes... But try and understand the Indian psyche, so you meet with greater success!

The problem, dear Kelloggs people, is not just that Indians prefer 'hot breakfasts' and all that jazz you told us at the glitzy press conference at the Oberoi rooftop in circa 2010.

The problem is your cornflakes are too damn expensive. Cellphone usage has jumped exponentially, due to lower rates. So would the popularity of cornflakes -if you cared to bring down the price.

Right now we pick up one 500 gm dabba and eat it with kanjoosi for a month. At 49 bucks a box I bet we'd be OK polishing off a box a week.

And then, all this Iron-Shakti business I'd happily swallow. And so would Indians across SECs.

We have these funny Kellogg's ideas because of the artificial beings that we have become. Not that cooking dal is very natural, but still its closer to nature than having Kelloggs or Maggi for example. Everything else like what dieticians say is crap. The fact is we have forgotten the very meaningful lesson of being conservative and yes when i say that I mean developing a conserving attitude. when eating is satisfying hunger we talk about eating for taste and then again starts an addiction of taste and everything else. We hardly do things the way they should be done and we hardly do things for the right reasons.

Many girls these days want a job to prove something and there are less who want it because thats the way it should be. Feminists do things for feminism and thats the reason they suck. We need to think about why we do so many things the way we do them. If the reasons are fears (including insecurities and crisis like the typical feminist notion of insecurity about identity and individuality and freedom and space) or temptations (taste, thrill etc. . ) then things do go wrong. And we see all this intellectual shit.

Till then, can you please pass the paalak paneer?!

Monday, October 4, 2010

Hum aapke hain CORN

India is the cradle of civilisation, say the history textbooks. Well, seems to me it's also the birthplace of a million different vegetables.

The average Indian is acquainted with far, far more veggies than any Western man. It could be my imagination but vegetables - when referred to with their Indian names - conjure up a completely different meaning.

Say, cauliflower and peas. To the Western palate that would be a side-dish made edible with salt, pepper and butter. A form of par-boiled punishment.

Alu-gobi on the other hand, is warm, fragrant and inviting on a chilly winter afternoon in north India. Though it does evoke a 'not again!' feeling when you open your school tiffin box... at times.

Beyond potatoes, peas, carrots spinach and aubergine, Western man has alternatives like asparagus, leeks and artichokes. The Indian has bhindi, kaddu, lauki, tindi, turai, methi, karela...

Everyone has at least one of those veggies on their hate-list but often with time and the right preparation that changes. I absolutely love baingan ka bharta and stuffed karela - things I never ever touched in my childhood.

Firang Sabzis seek stomachs 
Of late, we are being invaded by new, foreign vegetables. The runaway success in this race is 'sweet corn'.

Eight years ago, it was something rare and exotic. Now, 'American sweet corn' is everywhere. In supermarkets, at roadside vendors, at multiplexes and malls (where 'corn in a cup' - 4 different flavours - has become a popular snack) and of course the classic 'sweet corn veg' Chinese soup.

Lettuce - which has been around longer - remains a veggie for health-conscious, upmarket types. Maybe because salad is not exactly an integral part of the Indian diet and lettuce can't be eaten in any other form.

Mushroom is popular - but nowhere near the levels of sweet corn. Because again its an acquired taste and alien texture. Plus, the fact that it's technically a fungus puts off some communities like Jains.

Sweet corn on the other hand is a variation on a veggie we know and love - the bhutta and it's sweet which means everyone (and especially the Gujjus) love it.

Besides, several fast food concoctions like corn bhel and corn chaat have quickly been invented and it's being promoted as a 'zero fat' snack. (if you choose to overlook the dollops of butter on top!)

What's in a name?
And being called 'American sweet corn' is an added bonus. Because names do matter. Studies of consumer psychology show that descriptive labels and dishes evoke more interest. "Tender Grilled Chicken" sells better than "Grilled Chicken" and "Grandma's Zucchini Cookies" outsold "Zucchini Cookies."

The theory being that people transfer the positive associations they have with those descriptors to the food itself.

So American sweet corn definitely had higher chances of success than plain sweet corn. Or Bangladeshi sweet corn
:)

Of course, it's both a demand and supply side story. The farmers are smarter today - they quickly scent a 'cash crop'. After strawberries, sweet corn was noticed as the 'Next Big Thing' and Mahabaleshwar has gone completely corny.

Which is great. More supply = more reasonable prices. As Axl Rose might've put it... Woahhhh woah woah Sweet Corn of Mine!

Thursday, September 30, 2010

Ghar ka khaana zindabad

A Bong friend recently dragged me to have lunch at an eatery here in Aurobindo Street called 'Jubilee'. The chief attraction here is that the food served is 'just like what we once had at home'.

So, in a fancy setting we had 'home food', at less than homely prices. With each mouthful my friend was going over the moon, while I was wondering - as I chewed on rice with banana flower ki sabzi - whether there were any leftovers in my fridge.

OK - it wasn't THAT bad but really, I wouldn't have wanted to pay 500 bucks for a meal like that. Because I am not from Calcutta and it did not bring back any fond memories.

But it set me thinking... The wheel has turned full circle.

When we were kids, going to a restaurant was the ultimate treat. It happened only a couple of times an year - on birthdays and anniversaries or even guests coming from outside. (In fact, we waited for such Bhagwaan's to come) and we'd usually visit only Nataraj or Neelam or for that matter if the the Devtas or Devis were that great, we would move to Shilpi which was an open air restaurant or may be sometimes Park View. But those were days you looked forward to.

But the tide turned when we moved out of the circumference of mom's cooking - and started living on our own. Cut to the present. After years of trial and error I have (at last) learnt to take care of the daily 'paapi pet ka sawaal'. I carry a dabba to office, and usually eat at home.

Of course we still do eat out a couple of times a week to:
a) Catch up with friends over a meal.
b) Try out some new place/ kind of food - for the experience.

Home economics
I think 'ghar ka khaana' will be the Next Big Luxury for many of us. As two-income families mushroom the question is - will they survive on ready-to-eat/ junk food/ Udipi meals?

Pondy has always had enterprising ladies who send lunch and even dinner dabbas with home-cooked food. But I think the next step is actually a chain of take-aways, located in office complexes/ malls from where you can pick up home-cooked mix n match meals.


So you could pick up 6 chapatis, 100 gms alu-tamatar ki sabzi and 100 gms moong ki daal + some dahi on your way home - enough for a couple.

The smart thing would be to have - the way dabba ladies do - a variety of cuisine. ie Gujarati, Punjabi, south Indian - more styles depending on demand.

Someone will of course have to study how to make on a mass scale food that tastes just like ghar ka. While no two moms cook alike, there is a generally accepted spectrum in which home food falls.

The menu would be more 'pedestrian' - tindi, turai, alu-gobi, tuar daal. Even if there's paneer - it would be home-style and not swathed in heavy gravies and spices like restaurants normally serve.

I read somewhere that Food Bazaar has started something similar on an experimental basis all over India, but haven't had a chance to visit. If anyone has - and can vouch for taste/ hygiene do lemme know!

I think custom has been dying a slow death in most walks of life ever since mankind got Henry Forded...and all ghars are not blessed with this aura of ghar ka khana.... some ghars .. they avoid khana :)and best are the mothers / wives who know how to plan their menu... so that their charges... keep asking for more... forever 

Reminds me of this little place tucked away in one of the busy by-lanes in Madras which serves food in small take-away-friendly portions. I think it is called The Spicy and is purely geared towards office deliveries, serving (almost) homemade Gujarati stuff like theplas and khichdi with kadhi, etc. Even those who wanted to 'eat-in' were served in the same Styrofoam boxes.

Talking of pay-by-weight, there is a Saravana Bhavan also which has got a buffet-by-weight concept ('don't load your plate and then waste, we'll charge you for refills only by weight, thank you'). OK, if economy is the criteria then you are better off doing the unlimited meals in the ground-floor dining hall at the other Saravana Bhavans.

Tuesday, August 31, 2010

Be it mirchi or murg, a pakora is a pakora !!

No one says " Rain Rain Go Away" when the first monsoon showers arrive. Not only is the parched earth rejuvenated, but there is the unmistakable and delicious smell of mouth-watering pakoras being fried. Recently, even before the sky darkened, a friend treated us to Japanese tempura. These are fritters that come draped in delicate, translucent attire with not a speck of spice as adornment, thereby letting you savour the original taste of the ingredients.

To keep the rice flour batter exceptionally crisp, ice-cold water is used. There are other foreign fritters no less tempting such as green spinach leaf which refuses to wilt despite deep-frying. But, why travel abroad to relish such fritters when one can taste bliss right here in India in a pakora made with screaming scarlet rhododendron blossoms, kamal kakari or pumpkin flowers?

Pakora is masculine and pakori (used commonly in UP and Bihar) is feminine. There is also the plebian bread pakora, a lifesaver for countless Indians who must grab a filling bite while on the run. Here, a sandwich packed with a spicy potato filling is dunked into a batter of thick gram flour before being deep-fried. The more pretentious version may include a few tidbits of paneer.

Then there is the mirchi bada (chilly pakora) of Jodhpur, which is as much a part of city lore as breeches, jackets and the majestic Mehrangarh fort. Bengal boasts of a great variety of bhaja, which is deep-fried. Some, like beguni, are indistinguishable from brinjal pakora elsewhere. Arum leaves, filled with urad dal paste, yield patode in Banaras, which treats it like a side dish rather than a snack. All along the west coast and southern India, bhajjis and bhajia prepared with onions, potatoes and brinjals are relished. In Tamil Nadu, raw banana fritters are preferred. But as the poet said, what is in a name? A pakora is a pakora, is a pakora.

One can also savour anda (boiled egg) pakora near liquor shops. In winter, murg and fish pakoras give tough competition to tikkas and tandoori fare. Mixed pakora platters are one of the most popular accompaniments of tea in the roadside dhaba. Potatoes, cauliflower, onion and green chillies contribute the bulk; a few batons of cottage cheese add a touch of opulence. In season, one can also seek delight in a green (spinach) pakora — a small flat emerald-hued offering.

Dhabas have long been associated with special pakoras. Garam Pani, en route to Almora, made its reputation from tiny alu-pyaaz-mirchi pakori served with a pungent mustard-laced raita that could put any wasabi to shame. The trick is to refry the fare for extra crispness. Some vendors take great pride in their trade secret and scorn to use a readymade chaat masala. Tucked away between Regal Cinema and Allahabad Bank in Delhi is Malik's, which for generations has been synonymous with mouth-watering pakora, especially gobi and paneer.

But perhaps all that was before transfats struck terror in our weak hearts?

Lazizaan, the delight of Akbar's palace

Raja Birbal, the legendary wit with rapier sharp repartee, one of Akbar's priceless nine gems, is also known as the 'father' of extremely slow cooking khichadi. He may have had his reasons for adopting weird culinary means to communicate with his sovereign but the fact of the matter is that in the Mughal period, khichadi was considered a delicacy and vied with pulav and biryani.

Akbar had it served to Prince Salim when he returned victorious from a campaign in Gujarat. Of course, in the Imperial dastarkhwan, it was given a name to match the occasion: lazizaan (the delicious). It became Jehangir's favourite. Many Mughal miniatures depict cooks at work in the royal kitchens and it is reasonable to assume that one of the pots is dedicated to laziza.

How the mighty khichadi has fallen. Once meriting mention in court chronicles of Al-Baruni and Abul Fazal, it is now synonymous with an insipid gruel, to be prescribed for an upset stomach. Don't despair, there is much more to the khichadi than the runny rice-husked moong daal mixture.

Makar Sankranti in the Ganga-Jamuna delta is ritually celebrated with maash (un-husked whole urad lentils) ki khichadi. Arhar ki khichadi is enjoyed all the year round, at times with haldi gosht in thin gravy.

In Hyderabad, khichadi paired with keema is a popular traditional breakfast and in Bengal, it is a spicy delight during Kali Puja. In Rajathan and Gujarat, khichadi prepared with bajra (millets) is considered a delicacy. And, what is pongal in Tamil Nadu if not a flavourful version of kshirika mentioned in ancient ayurvedic texts?

Long, long ago when Hinglish hadn't yet vanquished the Rashtrabhasha, one frequently heard the rhymed wisdom, 'Khichadi ke chaar yaar – dahi, papad, ghee, achaar.' (Khichadi has four bum-chums – yoghurt, papad, ghee and pickles). Sometimes, papad was replaced with muli (horse radish). Those of us who don't belong to the post-globalization generation still pine for a well-made khichadi when served a pretentious but indifferently made biryani and pulav.

The Hobson-Jobson dictionary documents Kedgree, a pish-pash of left-overs served for breakfast. In Hindi, a motley crowd is bemel khichadi, hence a coalition government is called khichadi sarkar!